British And Brazilian – Two Vintage Green Tourmaline And Diamond Rings

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A tourmaline, diamond, gold and platinum ring by Andrew Grima, created in 1974, is offered for sale via 1stDibs.
The superb and rare circular green tourmaline (23cts) is skillfully held by twenty kite-shaped diamonds of varying sizes in platinum. The diamonds in collets are mounted on stalks of 18K yellow gold. Signed GRIMA, London hallmarks for 1974. UK Size: M 1/2 US Size: 6 1/2 . The ring is in its original box. Price is $50,338.17AUD for this ring by a highly collectible designer.

It’s a ring that was exhibited in the Grima Retrospective, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London, May 1991, no 162, in the exhibition catalogue, and there’s a colour illustration and description on page 70.

Andrew Grima was one of the British designers who changed the face of jewellery in the early 1960s. He was, unusually, entirely self-taught and never worked at the bench. He considered being a pure designer to be an advantage; his ideas were constrained only by imagination. His biography on the Grima Jewellery website briefly refers to his achievements:

By the mid-1960s Grima had become the doyen of British jewellery design – the Royal and society jeweller of the day. He is the only jeweller to have been awarded the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design and his service to industry was recognised with The Queen’s Award for Export. He won the De Beers Diamonds International Award (the Oscars of jewellery design) a record 13 times and, in 1969, was commissioned by Omega to create one of the most outrageous and daring watch collections ever made.

Today Andrew Grima is recognised as one of the great modernist jewellery designers of the 20th century; perhaps the most influential of the post-war period. His work can be seen in the collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Since Andrew’s death in 2007, his wife Jojo and daughter Francesca continue the tradition of creating highly original handmade jewellery. A limited collection of 20 to 30 pieces is created each year as only a handful of goldsmiths, most of whom have been employed by Grima for over 40 years, possess the skills required to make these unique pieces. Jojo and Francesca also accept requests for bespoke designs and offer a large selection of vintage pieces. The Grima collections can be viewed by appointment or at Masterpiece London.

A couple of images of the ring are below – including a shot of the ring as worn. The hand is distracting, but I include it because the light shining through the tourmaline is quite stunning, giving the green a wonderful intensity.

The Bazilian tourmaline and diamond ring by H Stern is on the next page (the link is below the images of Grima’s ring).
Meanwhile – thanks must go to 1stDibs and Grima Jewellery for images and information.

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